スフレチーズケーキ : Soufflé Cheesecake as Japanese Soufflé Cheese cake part1
スフレチーズケーキは、正式にはJapanese Soufflé Cheesecakeと呼ばれオリジンは日本だそうです。ベークドチーズケーキに使う生クリームを牛乳に変更して湯煎で焼き上げることでふんわりと仕上がるのが特徴です（カロリーも控えめになります）。スフレチーズケーキの焼成は、ほとんどのオーサーが湯煎で160℃ x 50~60分（表面が狐色に焼けるまで）を標準手法としているようです。
Making batter : In advance, line parchment paper on the bottom and side of a φ18cm springform cake pan. The lateral paper shield needs 10 cm hight at least because a cake rises over the side wall of a cake pan. Then cover the bottom of the cake pan with 2 layers of aluminum foil overlapped. Preheat the oven up to 160C. ① Place 200 gram cream cheese, 40 gram butter, and 80 gram whole milk into a large bowl and warm it up over a double boiler (Bain-marie) on medium-low heat. ② Stir evenly until smoth. Then, remove fron heat and add a few taps of a lemon essence and 10 gram lemon juice. Stir evenly. ③ Separate 4 whole eggs to egg yolks and egg whites, and refregerate egg whites in a fridge until use. Dump 4 egg yolks into the cream cheese mixture and whisk evenly.
Making meringue : ④ Sift 25 gram cake flour, 25 gram bread flour and 16 gram cornstarch over the egg yolk- cream cheese mixture. Fold it evenly until no powder chunk shown. Put it aside. ⑤ Place 4 egg whites and 3 gram white wine vinegar into metal bowl and electric-whisk at low speed. ⑥ When it gets into the soft peak form, adding 30 gram superfine sugar, continue to electric-whisk at high speed. Repeat the same procedure at 3 times until the sugar is exausted. ⑦ Stop whisking at the stiff peak form. The meringue has done.
⑧メレンゲを1/3ほどーズ混合液に加え、スパチュラで混ぜてなじませます。 ⑨Go back methodに従い、メレンゲに上記を全部戻し今度はゆっくりと丁寧に混ぜて(fold)ていきます。メレンゲの塊がなくなって均一になる最小限の回数だけfoldを繰り返します。 ⑩用意した焼型に生地を注ぎます。 ⑪天板に乗せ、お湯を底面から1cmを超える深さになるまで加えます。 ⑫160℃で60分ほどオーブンで調理します。時間は表面の焼き色を見ながら微調整します。この後、加熱を止めオーブンのドアを少し開いて（割り箸を挟んだ程度の隙間を作ります）予熱で20分位じっくりと中心部まで熱を加えておきます。 ⑬オーブンから取り出して室温で冷まします。クッキングシートの油の跡から2cmくらい丈が縮んだことが分かります。
Preparing for oven-baking : ⑧ Dump 1/3 volume of the meringue into the cream cheese mixture and fold it with a spaula until well incorporated. ⑨ Accoring to go back method, return it back into the meringue in the metal bowl. Fold it gently to avoid deflating the meringue until no meringue mass shown. ⑩ Pour the batter into the prepared mold (pan). Tap the pan and release large air bubble with stirring by a stick. ⑪ Place the mold on the bking plate filled in hot water which requires 1cm depth at least. ⑫ Oven-bake in the hot water bath at 160C for about 60 minutes until the surface gets golden brown. Then turn off the oven and leave the cheese cake with the door slightly opned for about 20 minutes. ⑬ Cool it completely at room temperature although the cake loses its volume in the hight.
Assembling : ⑪ Dump 1 cup of an apricot jam into a saucepan to dissolve over medium heat. Blend it into puree with a handy-blender. ⑫ Pour the puree over the cake. Let it chill with unmolded in a fridge overnight..
チーズケーキの焼き時間の公式 150℃～160℃ X 50~60分（表面が狐色に焼けるまで） その後オーブンをオフにして若干ドアを開き気味にして予熱で20分位焼き進みを加える。
ブリオッシュが基本生地で中央にカスタードを挟む様ですが, オリジナルのレシピでは、カスタードにはバニラとレモンクリームの混ぜ合わせたものを使用する様です（Alex Ledsom: A brief history of the tarte tropezienne, the french riviera’s favorite dessertを参照しました）。表面をクリスタルシュガーでコーティングする様ですがこれだけではインスタ写真で投稿されている様な表面のメロンパン様の凸凹模様ができません。いろいろ調べていると、どうもこれはcraquelin(クラクラン)を使用する様でした（クリスピーシューを作るときに使用するドウですからこれは有名ですね（一安心））。そもそもこれが日本のメロンパンのオリジンの様ですからこれを刻んで上から振りかければあの様な美しい凸凹模様となるのも納得がいきます。あとケーキシロップにorange blossom waterというのをほとんどのレシピで使っているのがわかりましたがこんなものは見たことも聞いたこともありませんので、国産のカクテルベースTUMUGIとレモンゼスト、レモンエッセンス混ぜてlemon syrupをこしらえてコンバートしてみました。
Basic Brioche Dough Ingredients : Keep it in a fridge overnight.
For Craquelin
Amount
Butter(salted)
20
Powdered Superfine Sugar
15
Cake Flour
10
Bread Flour
10
Basic Craquelin Dough : Mix the same volume of butter, sugar and flour.
For Lemon Syrup
Amount
Water
120 gram
Superfine Sugar
45 gram
Lemon Essence
8 drops
Lemon Zest
1 ea.
Vanilla Oil
6 drops
TUMUGI
8 gram
Original Lemon Syrup : The Japanese cocktail base “TUMUGI” is converted.
For Tropezienne Custard
Amount
Whole Milk
265 gram
Lemon Syrup
15 gram
Superfine Sugar
60 gram
Egg Yolk
4 ea. (80 gram)
Cornstarch
20 gram
Cream Cheese
200 gram
Vanilla Oil
a few drops
Powdered gelatin
5 gram
Water (cold)
25 gram
Tropezienne Custard: Original recipe requires Mascarpone. Unfortunately, I coudn’t get it. So I applied a typical cream cheese instead of Mascarpone. For stabilizing the pastry cream, add 2 to 3 percent (W/W) gelatin with 5-fold volume of cold water.
Preparing for Brioche : ① Pour 100 gram whole milk in a middle bowl (heat-durable). Dump 70 gram salted butter and 20 gram fat spread into it. Place it on the saucepan with a simmering water over medium heat. Mix it well until the butter is completely melted.② Sieve all dry ingredients (150 gram bread flour, 150 gram cake flour, 6 gram active dry yeast, 1.5 gram salt and 45 gram powdered superfine sugar in a metal bowl . Stir evenly with a fork. ③ Throw 2 whole eggs (at room temperature) into the milk-butter mixture in the middle bowl, one by one, whisking continuously with a balloon whipper. ④ Pour the egg-milk-butter mixture into the flour mixture with folding it gently by a wooden spoon until it gets to be a wet dough. ⑤ Rinse inside of a large bowl with vegetable oil. ⑥ Transfer the dough into the large bowl. Cover tightly with a plastic wrap and lay a towel over the top. ⑦ Leave the rise at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours to confirm bubbling up. ⑧ Once doubled in the size, place the dough with a towel over the top into a fridge overnight (for about 12 hours).
Making craquelin: ① Place 20 gram butter, 10 gram cake flour, 10 gram bread flour and 15 gram powdered superfine sugar in a metal bowl. Press to combine it with a pastry blender. ② Once the dough gets in together, transfer the dough on a floured surface of plastic wrap. Get the dough into round shape with plastic wrap.③ Place the dough on parchment paper with floured surface. Fold the dough with the parchment paper, then roll the dough out into square shape with a rolling pin. ④ Keep it in a freezer until use. Preparing Lemon Syrup: ① Place 45 gram superfine sugar and 1 lemon zest with 120 gram water in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Simmer it to a boil. ② Add a few drops of lemon essence and of vanilla oil, 8 gram TUGUMI over low heat and stir. ③ Remove from heat and transfer the syrup into cups through a mesh strainer to retrieve the lemon zest.
Preparing for Tropezienne Custard: Beforehand, dissolve 5 gram powdered gelatin into 5-fold volume (25 gram) of cold water and bloom it. Chill it in a fridge until use. ① Place 60 gram superfine sugar, 20 gram cornstarch and 4 egg yolks in a middle bowl. Whisk well until it gets creamy and well incorporated. ② Pour 265 gram whole milk into a saucepan, and bring it to a boil over medium heat. ③ Remove from heat. Pour slowly the half volume of the hot milk into the egg yolk mixture with continuously stirring to temper it. ④ Get it back into the saucepan. Again expose to the medium-low heat, and whisk continuously until the cream gets thick. ⑤ Then remove from heat and whisk vigorously for about 2 minutes until the custard has got to the favorite consistency. ⑥ Dump 200 gram cream cheese into the custard over medium-low heat and whisk well until it has been completely dissolved . ⑦ Transfer the custard back into the middle bowl and pour 15 gram lemon syrup and a few drops of vanilla oil to mix well. ⑧ Resolve the gelatin over medium heat and pour it into the custard to mix well. ⑨ Plastic-wrap the surface of the custard and leave it at room temperature.
Baking Brioche Cake : ① Take the dough out from the fridge. Dust flour adequately and roll it out in φ 18 cm round shape of about the 2 cm width. ② Line parchment paper on bottom and side of a Φ18 cm spring-form cake pan. Place the round dough on its bottom. Tightly plastic-wrap on top and cover it with a towel. Leave it at room temperature for about 30 to 40 minutes until the dough has risen up to double volume. ③ Give egg-wash 2 times on the surface. Preheat the oven up to 180C. ④ Take the craquelin from the freezer to cut into about 1 cm square shape. Sprinkle it over the egg-washed surface. ⑤ Oven-bake at 180C for around 50 minutes. Stay cautious not to over-bake. It’s somewhat hard to get an adequate baking in the middle. Observing the superficial baking, pierce the cake with a stick to confirm that it has well done. ⑥ Let it cool at room temperature and unmolded early as possible.
Assembling : ① Pour 150 gram cold heavy cream with 20 gram powdered superfine sugar into a metal bowl. Electric-whisk until the stiff peak form to make Creme Chantilly. Transfer the custard into a pastry bag.② Mix and fold the Toropezienne custard and the Creme Chantilly with a spatula evenly. ③ Cut the brioche cake horizontally into the even 3 layers with a cake slicer. ④ Brush the bottom layer of the cake with the lemon syrup, then pipe the custard in the shape of a 2cm round on the surface many times until no space. Place the second layer brushed and repeat the same procedure. ⑤ Place the top layer and dust powder sugar adequately.
Preparing for Basque Custard: Beforehand, dissolve 15 gram powdered gelatin into 5 fold volume (75 gram) of cold water and bloom it. Chill it in a fridge until use. ① Place 48 gram cane sugar, 8 gram cornstarch, 16 gram matcha-milk powder and 4 egg yolks in a middle bowl. Whisk well until it gets creamy and well incorporated. ② Pour 240 gram whole milk into a saucepan, and bring it to a boil over medium heat. ③ Remove from heat. Pour slowly the half volume of the hot milk into the egg yolk mixture with continuously stirring to temper it. ④ Get it back into the saucepan. Again expose to the medium-low heat, and whisk continuously until the cream gets thick. ⑤ Then remove from heat and whisk vigorously for about 2 minutes until the custard has got to the favored consistency. ⑥ Pour 60 gram heavy cream into the custard over medium-low heat and whisk well. ⑦ Transfer the custard back into the middle bowl and pour 10 gram brandy and a few drops of vanilla oil to mix well. ⑧ Resolve the gelatin over medium heat and pour it into the custard to mix well. ⑨ Plastic-wrap the surface of the custard and chill it in a fridge. Don’t remember to bring it out before the custard gets too firm. Release the excess heat, leave it at room temperature.
<2>バスクドウの作製法（練りこみパイ生地）
まず、ケーキパンの底面と側面にクッキングシートを貼り付けます。オーブンを180℃に予熱しておきます。 ① 1cmキューブに切断した140グラムのバター、60グラムのマーガリン、105グラムのアーモンドフラワー、130グラムのきび糖を大型ボウルに入れます。 ②ペーストリーブレンダーを用いてバターの粒が米粒くらいになるまでガシガシと切るように混ぜていきます。 ③220グラムの小麦粉（強力粉：薄力粉＝1:1)を篩い、混ぜます。この段階から木べらで混ぜるのがもっともシンプルです（こっから電動ミキサーで一気に最後まで行こうと考えましたがやはり最後に木べらが必要です）。 ④最後に全卵2個を投入し、若干クリーム状になるまで混ぜます。 ⑤絞り袋に移し、1cm厚の円を中心から外側に向かって最下層の生地を敷きます。
Making Basque Dough: Line parchment paper on the bottom and side of a φ 18cm springform cake pan. Preheat the oven up to 180C. ① Place 140 gram diced butter and 60 gram margarine into a large bowl. Sieve 105gram almond flour and 130 gram cane sugar over it. ② Mix well with a pastry blender and it gets chunky. ③ Shift 110 gram bread flour and 110 gam cake flour and mix well and electric-whisk. ④ Add 2 whole eggs and electric-whisk until it gets creamy and well incorporated. ⑤ Transfer the dough into a pastry bag and pipe a circle from center to margin on the bottom of the cake pan with 1cm width.
Preparing for oven-bake: ①Whisk the basque custard and transfer into a pastry bag. If the custard is too hard, warm it over the double boiler. Don’t over-warm. ② Pipe 1 line of a circle of the Basque dough around the margin on the bottom layer. Then pipe a circle inside the circle from center to margin of the Basque custard. ③Pipe a consecutive circle of the Basque dough as the third layer. ④ Lightly press the dough on top and flatten it with a pallet knife. ⑤ Chill it in a fridge until the surface gets firm. Brush the surface with beaten egg and draw lines with a fork. ⑥ Oven-bake at 180C for 60 minutes. Cover the surface with aluminum foil if the surface gets too dark. ⑦Remove from the oven, chill it at room temperature. Chill it in a fridge with unmolded.
Making a carrot batter: ①lLine parchment paper on bottom and side of a cake pan. Preheat the oven up to 180C. ②Dump 160 gram Tianjin sweet roasted chestnuts into a mixing cup to crush it into the powdered. Grate 250 gram carrot with a ceramic peeler and dice into small pieces. ③Sift 140 gram cake flour, 140gram bread flour, 3 gram cinnamon powder, 2.5 gram salt, 3 gram baking powder, and 3 gram baking soda into large bowl to mix well with a fork. ④Place 4 whole eggs and 320 gram powdered sugar into a heat durable large bowl and whisk over the double boiler (Bain-Marie) until the sugar is completely melted. ⑤Remove from heat and electric-whisk until it gets pale and triple volume (ribbon stage). ⑥Pour 300 gram vegetable oil and continue to electric-whisk at low speed until it gets well incorporated.
⑦刻みニンジン250グラムを投入してホイッパーで均一になるように混ぜます。 ⑧粉類を篩い、スパチュラでホールドしていきます。常法に従い、中心から外側に向かい下方から上方に回転させながら混ぜます（center to margin, down to up fold)。篩に残った少しおきめの塊は最後に混ぜます。 ⑨焼型（18 cm springform pan)に注ぎます。なかなか熱が通りにくいですので忍耐を要します。4層分を一回で焼き上げますので火入れは工夫が必要です（4つの焼き型があるなら4等分して焼けば１個30分位で焼成できると思います）。まず180℃で約30分焼成します。この辺で表面の焼きが先行しますので、アルミホイルでふたをして170℃に落としてあとはじっくり焼きます。大体プラス50分位かかってやっとバウンスバックと串による確認で焼きあがったことが確認できました。 ⑩ケーキスライサーで4層に分割します。こういう時は便利な道具です。 クレームシャンティイ（作成法はその4を参考にしてください）をこしらえて、スポンジ→ホイップクリーム→ スポンジ→ホイップクリーム の順に積んでいき、最後にピーラーを用いて削りチョコを振りかけます。
⑦Dump grated carrots all into the batter and whisk evenly with a balloon whipper. ⑧Sieve dry ingredients and fold it gently with a spatula following the center to margin, and down to up fold. ⑨Pour the batter into the cake pan and oven-bake at 180C for about 30 minutes and successively bake at 170C for about 50 minutes covered on top with aluminum foil. ⑩Cool it at room temperature and cut horizontally with a cake slicer into 4 parts. Assemble the cake with Creme Chantilly and grate dark chocolate on top.
Making a dough : ①Sieve all dry ingredients (300 gram bread flour, 300 gram cake flour, 9 gram active dry yeast, 3 gram salt and 94 gram powdered superfine sugar in a large bowl and stir evenly with a fork.. ②Pour 200 gram whole milk in a 500 ml measuring cup. Dump 90 gram salted butter and 90 gram fat spread into it. Place it in a simmering water over medium heat and mix well until the butter is completely melted.
③できたあがったバター牛乳(＊（注）バターミルクではないです）を中型のボウルに注ぎます。常温でしばらく平衡しておいた全卵を1個づつバター牛乳に投入しホイッパーでかき混ぜて均一にします。 ⑤ 全卵4個と卵黄1個を全部混ぜあわせた後、 大型のメタルボウルに移しかえます。 ⑥前もって用意した粉類の混合物を2-3回に分けて篩ってスパチュラで混ぜます。粉が完全に見えなくなるまでcenter to margin foldで丁寧に混ぜていきます。グルテンが析出しない程度のラフな混ぜ具合です。 ⑤サランラップで表面を覆い、遮光タオルをかぶせて2時間くらい常温で発酵を進めます。タオルを取り除いてドウのサイズが2-3倍になっていたら出来上がりです。この時点ではドウはドロドロしています。 ⑥ドウを冷やして休ませることで硬度を回復させます。もう一度うえからタオルをかぶせて約12時間冷蔵庫で放置します。これで成形できるレベルの十分な硬さと気泡を含んだ理想的なドウになります。
Making a dough : ③Pour the milk-butter mixture into a medium bowl. Throw 4 whole eggs and 1 egg yolk (at room temperature) into it one by one whisking continuously with a balloon whipper. ④Sift the flour mixture in 3 batches over it with folding it gently by a spatula until it gets to be a wet dough. ⑤Cover tightly with a plastic wrap and lay a towel over the top. Leave the rise at room temperature for 2 hours to confirm the rise and bubbling up. ⑥Once doubled in the size, place the dough with a towel over the top into a fridge overnight (for about 12 hours).
Forming a favorite donuts : ⑦On a floured surface, roll the dough out to about 1 cm thick. ⑧Using a φ12 cm ramekin, cut out the dough into a round piece and punch out the middle hole (ie: with a core of plastic wrap). ⑨Line aluminum foil on a baking tray and over-lay parchment paper over it to prevent the bottom of the dough from browning too much. ⑩Lay the donuts on the parchment paper and cover the donuts with a towel. Leave to rise again at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes until puffing up. ⑪Meanwhile, prepare various glaze, basically “glace a l’eau” with whole milk, or strawberry wine, lemon juice and plus cacao powder or matcha powder.
⑪ 1.5倍くらいに膨張したらオーブンで190℃ x 10~15分（表面がgolden brownに焼けるまで）焼成します。オーブンに入れる前、または途中で焼き具合確認の際に溶かしバターを刷毛で表面に軽く塗っておくと焼き上りは非常に食欲をそそる色調になります。油断して焦がさないように注意が必要です。 レンジの中で3倍くらいにボリュームアップしているのが分かると思います。 ⑫焼きあがったら直ちに別皿に移して、表面をグレーズにつけます。このあと粉末ココナツや抹茶パウダー、シナモンパウダーなどを振りかけてクーリングラックの上で冷まします。すぐに冷めますのでおまちかねの試食タイムになります。
Oven-baking : ⑪Checking out the dough has puffed up, brush the surface with melted butter. Oven-bake at 190C for 10 to 15 minutes until the surface gets golden brown. ⑫Once the donuts baking up, soak it into the glaze and cool it on the cooling rack at room temperature. Now is the time of tasting.
Making a Victoria Sponge Cake: In advance, grease a cake pan to line parchment paper, and preheat the oven up to 170C. ① Place 120 gram salted butter and 60 gram margarine, 135 gram powdered superfine sugar in a large bowl. Whisk until it gets creamy. ② Beat 3 whole eggs and pour them into the butter cream and whisk until well incorporated as possible. That’s a tough work so that you had better to use an electric whipper. ③Shift 170 gram cake flour and 7 gram baking powder, 3 gram salt over the egg-butter mixture in 3 batches, and fold it. If the batter is too hard, loosen it by adding some milk. ④Pour the batter into the cake pan and oven-bake at 170C for about 45 minutes. ⑤ Let it cool at room temperature. After unmoulding to rip the parchment paper, divide the cake horizontally in 2 parts. ⑥ Paste the whipped cream on the surface of the one of the divided cakes. Place sliced strawberries over it. Again, set the whipped cream and place strawberry-pieces over it. ⑦ Place another layered cake on top. Sprinkle confectioner’s sugar and place strawberry-plates on top. Chill it in a fridge until served.
A→Eまでの断面を観察します。A: EY: EW =0:5、B: EY: EW =1:5、 C: EY: EW =2:5、D: EY: EW =3:5、E: EY: EW =４:5と左から右へ並んでいます。D,Eは焼き時間を延長する必要があり、Eは構造強度が強く質感があるためクッキングペーパーの隙間を破って膨張したため裂けました。
Cut-surface of sample cakes with the various combination of egg yolks per egg whites : Figures correspond sample A to E from left to right. Sample A is a typical angel food cake. The ratio egg yolks per egg whites is; 0 in A, 1/5 in B, 2/5 in C, 3/5 in D, 4/5 in E. Unfortunately, sample E ruptured during oven-bake.
The sample C was selected for its modification. I assumed that the sample C will change its texture into that close to a typical chiffon cake plus an angel food cake with using baking powder.
サンプルCをベースにオリジナルなシフォンケーキの配合を考えました。卵黄：卵白の比率は2:5前後をチョイスします。これを軸に水分／小麦粉比（バッターの粘度とベーキングパウダーの効果に影響）、砂糖(上白糖）／小麦粉（>1(0.75)のhigh ratioに収める）に計算をして微調整します。水分比のカギになる牛乳（換水値90）の量は卵黄混合液に小麦粉を少量ずつ混合し、バッターの粘度(consistency)を見ながら少しずつ補充した結果、total 40 ml加えました（換水率からの理論値は10 ml相当です）。薄力粉の総使用量は102 g となりました。配合組成を下記に示します。今回作成したバッターをChiffon C、前回作成した基本のシフォンケーキをChiffon N, エンゼルフードケーキをChiffon Zとし、教科書的なシフォンケーキをchiffon Tとしています。C, N, Zはφ18cmのケーキパン用の用量（実測値で単位はグラム(g))で、Tは小麦粉を100とした時の配合比で示します。略号はPSS: Powdered Superfine Sugar, GS: Granulated Sugar, CT: Cream of Tartar, VO: Vegetable Oil, BP: Baking Powderです。
Ingredients
Chiffon C
Chiffon N
Chiffon Z
Chiffon T
Cake Flour
102
130
60
100
PSS (GS)
84
104
60
81 (108)
Whole Egg
143
Egg Yolk
52 (2.8 ea)
74 (4 ea)
Egg White
226 (7 ea)
173 (5 ea)
210 (5 ea)
CT
3
1.3
3
1
VO
40
52
40
Water (Milk)
(40)
(104)
80(88)
Salt
2.0
2.5
1
2
BP
4
5
4
Vanilla Oil
a few drops
a few drops
a few drops
Almond Essence
a few drops
Baking Trick
170C x 40 minutes
170C x 55 minutes
170C x 35 minutes
Blending Ratio of the Chiffon Cake C : Chiffon C → modified version (new), Chiffon N → conventional chiffon cake previously made, Chiffon Z → basic angel food cake, Chiffon T → basic chiffon cake (from text book)
シフォンケーキ作りの常法に準じますので端折ります。 ①卵黄3個分、粉砕上白糖42グラム、牛乳40グラム、キャノラオイル40グラムを耐熱ボウルに入れ、Bain-marieで混合します。 ②薄力粉102グラム、ベーキングパウダー4グラムを少しずつ篩い、ホイッパーで混ぜて安定した乳化状態にします。少し粘調ですがグルテンが析出してくるほどではないです。 ③7個分の卵白にクリームオブターター3グラムを加えて、電動ホイッパーで泡立てします。粉砕上白糖を加えstiff peakのメレンゲに仕上げます、 ④go back methodにしたがい両者を混合し、均一な生地になったら焼型に注ぎます。多すぎるようならラメキンに注いでカップケーキのように一緒に焼きます。ラメキンは170C x 20分、チューブパンの方は170C x 40分焼きます。 ⑤ラメキンのケーキは熱いうちにパレットナイフで側面をぐるっと切り離してお皿にひっくり返して抜き出します。これで焼縮みは最小限になります。チューブパンはひっくり返してマグカップの上で冷まします。
Modified chiffon batter: Place 3 egg yolks, 42 gram powdered superfine sugar, 40 gram oil, and 40 gram milk into a middle bowl over Bain-marie and mix well. Shift 102 gram cake flour and 2 gram salt, 4 gram baking powder over the egg yolk mixture,and whisk until well incorporated. Place 7 egg whites and 3 gram cream of tartar in a metal bowl, and electric-whisk until soft peak form. Gradually adding the powdered superfine sugar, electric-whisk until stiff peak form. According to the go back method, combine the egg yolk mixture and the stiff peak meringue to fold it gently until it gets smooth and even. Pour the batter into the tube pan and oven-bake at 170C for 40 minutes.
卵黄／卵白配合比と小麦と砂糖の配合比（ratio high / low)から分類したスポンジケーキの分類
教科書的な基本のシフォンケーキの配合組成は以下の通りです。Encyclopedia of Food and health 2016: P 582より引用させていただきました。これより上白糖を用いる場合の比率はシフォンケーキで81、エンジェルフードケーキで161と概算しました。
Chiffon Cake (% Flour Weight)
Angel food Cake (% Flour Weight)
Flour
100
100
Granulated Sugar
108
215
Egg White
277
Whole Egg
143
Cream of Tartar
1
4
Oil
40
Water
80
Salt
2
1
Baking Powder
4
教科書的なシフォンケーキとエンゼルフードケーキの配合組成：Encyclopedia of Food and health 2016: P 582より引用
ここから分量をΦ18 cmサイズのシフォンケーキ専用の焼型に合わせて計算、微調整していきます。ただし卵黄／卵白=4/5(個数比）で作成しますので少し分量修正が必要になります。卵白の換水値を80、牛乳の換水値90とし、卵白重量は1個34.6グラムでしたので卵黄より1個分多い卵白は約28グラムの水分とカウントしました。下記に今回作成した標準タイプのシフォンケーキの配合組成表を示します。 ただし以下のHigh Ratio ケーキの基本公式を使用します（焼型容積率75%で概算）。
Making chiffon batter: Place 4 egg yolk, 52 gram sugar, 52 gram oil, and 104 gram milk into a middle bowl over Bain-marie and mix well. Shift 130 gram cake flour and 2 gram salt, 5 gram baking powder over the egg yolk mixture,and whisk until well incorporated. Place 5 egg whites and 2 gram cream of tartar in a metal bowl, and electric-whisk until soft peak form. Gradually adding sugar, electric-whisk until stiff peak form. According to the go back method, combine the egg yolk mixture and the stiff peak meringue to fold it gently until it gets smooth and even. Pour the batter into the tube pan and oven-bake at 170C for 55 minutes.
Thermal expansion of the batter: In 5 minutes baking at 170C, the batter begins to show its elevation. In 10 minutes, the apparent lentiform elevation appears. In 20 minutes, the elevation of the batter gets over the side wall of the tube pan to cause disruption of the surface. In 25 minutes, it reaches the peak elevation with marked crack.
Blending Ratio of the Sample Batter : Abbreviations are as follows; EY: egg yolk, OI: oil, MI: milk, EW: eg white, CT: cream of tartar, SA; salt, PS: powdered superfine sugar, CF: cake flour, TE:; total egg yolk mixture, TM: total meringue flour mixture, TV: total volume, BT: baking time
Swiss Roll用のスポンジケーキの黄金比を前回捻出しましたが、この比率は非常にシフォンケーキの組成に酷似しています。これは単においしい生地はシフォンケーキであると肯定したにすぎません。そこでシフォンケーキの原点であるクラシックエンゼルフードケーキ（卵黄混合なし、油脂混合なし、ベーキングパウダー混合なし）から少しずつ卵黄／油脂を混合していきオリジナルなシフォンケーキの混合比とHigh ratio cake（砂糖の添加量が小麦粉に比べて相当多いケーキ）に関して極めてみたいと思います。
まず、ゼロに値するもの（卵黄なし）をまず作成してその食感を確かめる必要がありますが、これには①エンゼルフードケーキ（油脂、ベーキングパウダー混合なし）と②ホワイトスポンンジケーキ（バター（混合比 小麦の重量の約1/2)、ベーキングパウダー混合）があります。いずれも基本レシピは周知されていますが、前者はhigh ratio cake（1:2）になります。断面は両方ともピュアーな白色調ですが前者は高級食パンをさらにモフモフにした食感（今回確認）で、後者は柔らかめのスポンジケーキのような食感（以前に確認）になります。油脂（バター）を加えることでの食感の方向性は前回のSwiss roll同様で重量感と保湿感を加える方向にベクトルが向きます。油脂の方向軸は見当がつきますが、砂糖を増量(high ratio)することに対する方向軸は現時点では確認できていません。
Ingredients: 基本のエンゼルフードケーキの配合組成は以下の通りです。原本（Boston Cooking School Cook Book, 1986) では、11個の卵白とグラニュー糖を用いていますが、グラニュー糖よりも卵白に親和性のより高い上白糖（superfine sugar）をさらにミキサーで粉砕したpowdered superfine sugarで統一しました。さらに10 inch（φ25 cm）相当からφ18 cmに減量換算し、卵白重量（実測値）にあわせて焼き時間も微調整しました。 φ18 cm のシフォンケーキ専用の焼き型を使用します。
Ingredients
Amount for φ18 cm tube pan (chiffon cake pan)
Egg white (L)
5 ea (210 gram)
Cream of Tartar
3 gram
Salt
1 gram
Powdered superfine sugar
60 gram
Vanilla oil
a few drops
Almond extract
a few drops
Cake flower
60 gram
Powdered superfine sugar
60 gram
Baking time
170℃ x 35 minutes
Classic Angel Food Cake : The recipe is adjusted to a φ18 cm cake pan.
The pictures show powdered superfine sugar and refined flour mixture. Put superfine sugar into a blender to be crushed into fine powder. Mix the shifted cake flour and the powdered superfine sugar in a cup. Again, put the flour mixture into a blender to be fine powder so as not to deflate the meringue on folding.
The pictures show “cream of tartar” (left), beginning of electric mixture (center), and soft peak form (right). Separate egg yolks from egg whites, and leave egg whites at room temperature for a while. Place 5(210gram) egg whites and 3gram cream of Tartar in a metal bowl. Electric-whisk the egg whites. In a few minutes, it comes to a soft peak form. Adding a half volume of the powdered superfine sugar, continue to whisk at high speed until a firm peak form. The pictures show flavors (vanilla oil/ almond extract) (left), firm peak form (left-center), stiff peak form (center-right) and sieving flour mixture (right). Then, put a few drops of flavor( vanilla oil and almond extract) into the meringue, and continue whisking until it gets to a stiff peak form. I think it somewhat differs from the stiff peak of the beaten with chilled egg whites. Sieve the flour mixture in 2 batches over the meringue.
⑤②で調整した粉類を1/2量ずつメレンゲに篩い、スパチュラで抱き込みます。混ぜにくいですので基本に忠実に中央から辺縁にむけて丁寧に混合（center to margin fold)を行い粉類の痕跡がなくなるまで混ぜます。 ⑥シフォンケーキ用のセンターチューブのある焼き型に注ぎます。注いだ後、竹串で底にたまった空気や大きな気泡を追い出しておきます。ケーキパンの側面についた生地はできる限りキッチンペーパーで拭き取ります。焼くと生地は焼き型の側面を這いあってきますのでそれを邪魔しないためです。 ⑦170℃で35分オーブン焼きします。焼き始めて１５分くらいで表面がgolden brownに到達しますので表面割れ防止もかねてこの時上からアルミフォイルでカバーします。
Going by the down to up fold method, fold the flour into the meringue until no grainy. Pour the batter into the cake pan and remove air bubbles with a skewer. Wipe out the protruding part of the batter. Oven-bake at 170C for about 35 minutes. If the surface of the batter comes to dark early, cover the top with aluminum foil.
Cool the cake upside down with the center tube on a mug. Then, release the margin with a palette knife and pick up the center tube. Release the bottom and center fall. Flip down the mold and drop the cake.The angel food cake is done.
<前回作成した小麦粉のタンパク濃度を6.2%に調整して作成したSwiss Roll> Previously baked Swiss roll, the sponge cake of that was adjusted it’s protein concentration into 6.2 percent,
材料配合組成は下記のとおりです。上記のごとく、小麦タンパク濃度は7%に調整しました。卵はegg yolk 4個で77グラム、egg white 4個で136グラム、 total 213グラムでしたので砂糖は80グラム, 粉類（薄力粉60グラム、コーンスターチ20グラム), 牛乳20グラム、バター60グラム、塩2グラムで配合しました。 バターの略号をB（Butter)として、計算上最終的な配合比 は、E : S : F : B: L = 10.5 : 4 : 4 : 3: 1となりました。
Materials
Amount: for 26 x 26 x 2cm square pan
Egg Yolk
4 ea
Superfine Sugar
60 gram
Whole Milk for dilution liquid
20 gram
Salt
2 gram
Cake Flour
60 gram
Cornstarch
20 gram
Salted butter
60 gram
Egg White
4 ea
White Wine Vinegar
3 gram
Superfine Sugar
20 gram
Baking time
180C x 10minutes
Original Swiss Roll Batter Recipe: When it’s assumed that Egg Yolk →E, Sugar →S, Flour →F, , Butter →B, Liquid →L,, E : S : F : B: L equals to 10.5 : 4 : 4 : 3: 1.
<タンパク濃度7.0%に調節し、バターを60グラム加えた生地のオーブン調理前後> The batter, adjusted it’s protein-percentage into 7.0 with adding 60gram butter, was oven-baked at 180C for 10minutes until the color of the surface got golden brown.
スイスロールの拡大断面比較：（左）タンパク濃度6.2% （右）タンパク濃度7% + バター 蜂巣構造の中にバターが入りこんで重量感と保湿が改善されているのが見てとれます。 Cut surface of the Swiss roll: The left picture shows the cut surface of the roll containing 6.2 percent protein in its sponge cake, and the right does that of 7.0 percent protein and additional butter. Butter displaced the pneumatic space, and that attained moist and rich bulky taste.
スポンジが黄色調の方が6.2%、白色調の方が’7%+バター Converting the previous recipe(6.2%) into the present(7.0% plus butter), the color of cut surface turned yellowish to pale and the color of surface got more brownish that stimulates the appetite.一番黄色調なのがタンパク濃度11.2%, 中間が6.2%, 褐色調なのが7.0%+バター 3 types of the rolls’re shown. The most yellowish corresponds to 11.2 percent protein concentration, and the most brownish does to 7.0% plus butter.
以上より、チョコレート苦手派流オリジナル定理としてのロールケーキ生地の材料配合黄金比を、 E : S : F : B: L = 10~11 : 4 : 4 : 3: 1 と決めました。
