スフレチーズケーキ : Soufflé Cheesecake as Japanese Soufflé Cheese cake part1
スフレチーズケーキは、正式にはJapanese Soufflé Cheesecakeと呼ばれオリジンは日本だそうです。ベークドチーズケーキに使う生クリームを牛乳に変更して湯煎で焼き上げることでふんわりと仕上がるのが特徴です(カロリーも控えめになります)。スフレチーズケーキの焼成は、ほとんどのオーサーが湯煎で160℃ x 50~60分(表面が狐色に焼けるまで)を標準手法としているようです。
Making batter : In advance, line parchment paper on the bottom and side of a φ18cm springform cake pan. The lateral paper shield needs 10 cm hight at least because a cake rises over the side wall of a cake pan. Then cover the bottom of the cake pan with 2 layers of aluminum foil overlapped. Preheat the oven up to 160C. ① Place 200 gram cream cheese, 40 gram butter, and 80 gram whole milk into a large bowl and warm it up over a double boiler (Bain-marie) on medium-low heat. ② Stir evenly until smoth. Then, remove fron heat and add a few taps of a lemon essence and 10 gram lemon juice. Stir evenly. ③ Separate 4 whole eggs to egg yolks and egg whites, and refregerate egg whites in a fridge until use. Dump 4 egg yolks into the cream cheese mixture and whisk evenly.
Making meringue : ④ Sift 25 gram cake flour, 25 gram bread flour and 16 gram cornstarch over the egg yolk- cream cheese mixture. Fold it evenly until no powder chunk shown. Put it aside. ⑤ Place 4 egg whites and 3 gram white wine vinegar into metal bowl and electric-whisk at low speed. ⑥ When it gets into the soft peak form, adding 30 gram superfine sugar, continue to electric-whisk at high speed. Repeat the same procedure at 3 times until the sugar is exausted. ⑦ Stop whisking at the stiff peak form. The meringue has done.
⑧メレンゲを1/3ほどーズ混合液に加え、スパチュラで混ぜてなじませます。 ⑨Go back methodに従い、メレンゲに上記を全部戻し今度はゆっくりと丁寧に混ぜて(fold)ていきます。メレンゲの塊がなくなって均一になる最小限の回数だけfoldを繰り返します。 ⑩用意した焼型に生地を注ぎます。 ⑪天板に乗せ、お湯を底面から1cmを超える深さになるまで加えます。 ⑫160℃で60分ほどオーブンで調理します。時間は表面の焼き色を見ながら微調整します。この後、加熱を止めオーブンのドアを少し開いて(割り箸を挟んだ程度の隙間を作ります)予熱で20分位じっくりと中心部まで熱を加えておきます。 ⑬オーブンから取り出して室温で冷まします。クッキングシートの油の跡から2cmくらい丈が縮んだことが分かります。
Preparing for oven-baking : ⑧ Dump 1/3 volume of the meringue into the cream cheese mixture and fold it with a spaula until well incorporated. ⑨ Accoring to go back method, return it back into the meringue in the metal bowl. Fold it gently to avoid deflating the meringue until no meringue mass shown. ⑩ Pour the batter into the prepared mold (pan). Tap the pan and release large air bubble with stirring by a stick. ⑪ Place the mold on the bking plate filled in hot water which requires 1cm depth at least. ⑫ Oven-bake in the hot water bath at 160C for about 60 minutes until the surface gets golden brown. Then turn off the oven and leave the cheese cake with the door slightly opned for about 20 minutes. ⑬ Cool it completely at room temperature although the cake loses its volume in the hight.
Assembling : ⑪ Dump 1 cup of an apricot jam into a saucepan to dissolve over medium heat. Blend it into puree with a handy-blender. ⑫ Pour the puree over the cake. Let it chill with unmolded in a fridge overnight..
チーズケーキの焼き時間の公式 150℃~160℃ X 50~60分(表面が狐色に焼けるまで) その後オーブンをオフにして若干ドアを開き気味にして予熱で20分位焼き進みを加える。
ブリオッシュが基本生地で中央にカスタードを挟む様ですが, オリジナルのレシピでは、カスタードにはバニラとレモンクリームの混ぜ合わせたものを使用する様です(Alex Ledsom: A brief history of the tarte tropezienne, the french riviera’s favorite dessertを参照しました)。表面をクリスタルシュガーでコーティングする様ですがこれだけではインスタ写真で投稿されている様な表面のメロンパン様の凸凹模様ができません。いろいろ調べていると、どうもこれはcraquelin(クラクラン)を使用する様でした(クリスピーシューを作るときに使用するドウですからこれは有名ですね(一安心))。そもそもこれが日本のメロンパンのオリジンの様ですからこれを刻んで上から振りかければあの様な美しい凸凹模様となるのも納得がいきます。あとケーキシロップにorange blossom waterというのをほとんどのレシピで使っているのがわかりましたがこんなものは見たことも聞いたこともありませんので、国産のカクテルベースTUMUGIとレモンゼスト、レモンエッセンス混ぜてlemon syrupをこしらえてコンバートしてみました。
Basic Brioche Dough Ingredients : Keep it in a fridge overnight.
For Craquelin
Amount
Butter(salted)
20
Powdered Superfine Sugar
15
Cake Flour
10
Bread Flour
10
Basic Craquelin Dough : Mix the same volume of butter, sugar and flour.
For Lemon Syrup
Amount
Water
120 gram
Superfine Sugar
45 gram
Lemon Essence
8 drops
Lemon Zest
1 ea.
Vanilla Oil
6 drops
TUMUGI
8 gram
Original Lemon Syrup : The Japanese cocktail base “TUMUGI” is converted.
For Tropezienne Custard
Amount
Whole Milk
265 gram
Lemon Syrup
15 gram
Superfine Sugar
60 gram
Egg Yolk
4 ea. (80 gram)
Cornstarch
20 gram
Cream Cheese
200 gram
Vanilla Oil
a few drops
Powdered gelatin
5 gram
Water (cold)
25 gram
Tropezienne Custard: Original recipe requires Mascarpone. Unfortunately, I coudn’t get it. So I applied a typical cream cheese instead of Mascarpone. For stabilizing the pastry cream, add 2 to 3 percent (W/W) gelatin with 5-fold volume of cold water.
Preparing for Brioche : ① Pour 100 gram whole milk in a middle bowl (heat-durable). Dump 70 gram salted butter and 20 gram fat spread into it. Place it on the saucepan with a simmering water over medium heat. Mix it well until the butter is completely melted.② Sieve all dry ingredients (150 gram bread flour, 150 gram cake flour, 6 gram active dry yeast, 1.5 gram salt and 45 gram powdered superfine sugar in a metal bowl . Stir evenly with a fork. ③ Throw 2 whole eggs (at room temperature) into the milk-butter mixture in the middle bowl, one by one, whisking continuously with a balloon whipper. ④ Pour the egg-milk-butter mixture into the flour mixture with folding it gently by a wooden spoon until it gets to be a wet dough. ⑤ Rinse inside of a large bowl with vegetable oil. ⑥ Transfer the dough into the large bowl. Cover tightly with a plastic wrap and lay a towel over the top. ⑦ Leave the rise at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours to confirm bubbling up. ⑧ Once doubled in the size, place the dough with a towel over the top into a fridge overnight (for about 12 hours).
Making craquelin: ① Place 20 gram butter, 10 gram cake flour, 10 gram bread flour and 15 gram powdered superfine sugar in a metal bowl. Press to combine it with a pastry blender. ② Once the dough gets in together, transfer the dough on a floured surface of plastic wrap. Get the dough into round shape with plastic wrap.③ Place the dough on parchment paper with floured surface. Fold the dough with the parchment paper, then roll the dough out into square shape with a rolling pin. ④ Keep it in a freezer until use. Preparing Lemon Syrup: ① Place 45 gram superfine sugar and 1 lemon zest with 120 gram water in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Simmer it to a boil. ② Add a few drops of lemon essence and of vanilla oil, 8 gram TUGUMI over low heat and stir. ③ Remove from heat and transfer the syrup into cups through a mesh strainer to retrieve the lemon zest.
Preparing for Tropezienne Custard: Beforehand, dissolve 5 gram powdered gelatin into 5-fold volume (25 gram) of cold water and bloom it. Chill it in a fridge until use. ① Place 60 gram superfine sugar, 20 gram cornstarch and 4 egg yolks in a middle bowl. Whisk well until it gets creamy and well incorporated. ② Pour 265 gram whole milk into a saucepan, and bring it to a boil over medium heat. ③ Remove from heat. Pour slowly the half volume of the hot milk into the egg yolk mixture with continuously stirring to temper it. ④ Get it back into the saucepan. Again expose to the medium-low heat, and whisk continuously until the cream gets thick. ⑤ Then remove from heat and whisk vigorously for about 2 minutes until the custard has got to the favorite consistency. ⑥ Dump 200 gram cream cheese into the custard over medium-low heat and whisk well until it has been completely dissolved . ⑦ Transfer the custard back into the middle bowl and pour 15 gram lemon syrup and a few drops of vanilla oil to mix well. ⑧ Resolve the gelatin over medium heat and pour it into the custard to mix well. ⑨ Plastic-wrap the surface of the custard and leave it at room temperature.
Baking Brioche Cake : ① Take the dough out from the fridge. Dust flour adequately and roll it out in φ 18 cm round shape of about the 2 cm width. ② Line parchment paper on bottom and side of a Φ18 cm spring-form cake pan. Place the round dough on its bottom. Tightly plastic-wrap on top and cover it with a towel. Leave it at room temperature for about 30 to 40 minutes until the dough has risen up to double volume. ③ Give egg-wash 2 times on the surface. Preheat the oven up to 180C. ④ Take the craquelin from the freezer to cut into about 1 cm square shape. Sprinkle it over the egg-washed surface. ⑤ Oven-bake at 180C for around 50 minutes. Stay cautious not to over-bake. It’s somewhat hard to get an adequate baking in the middle. Observing the superficial baking, pierce the cake with a stick to confirm that it has well done. ⑥ Let it cool at room temperature and unmolded early as possible.
Assembling : ① Pour 150 gram cold heavy cream with 20 gram powdered superfine sugar into a metal bowl. Electric-whisk until the stiff peak form to make Creme Chantilly. Transfer the custard into a pastry bag.② Mix and fold the Toropezienne custard and the Creme Chantilly with a spatula evenly. ③ Cut the brioche cake horizontally into the even 3 layers with a cake slicer. ④ Brush the bottom layer of the cake with the lemon syrup, then pipe the custard in the shape of a 2cm round on the surface many times until no space. Place the second layer brushed and repeat the same procedure. ⑤ Place the top layer and dust powder sugar adequately.